One of my favorite cuisines, both to eat and to cook, is Mexican. It's a cuisine based on flavorful, inexpensive ingredients that were accessible to the masses. It's full of dishes that take lots of time, care, and expertise to make, yet are still made best by little old grandmas (abuelitas) rather than by professional chefs. In terms of bang for your buck, I don't think you can do any better than some good Mexican. I love Mexican. You love Mexican. Everyone loves Mexican.
Now, when you think Mexican you usually envision some hole in the wall taqueria complete with nostalgic pictures of ole Mexico and red, white and green themed everything. You definitely don't think of some trendy, modern sit down restaurant with servers dressed in all black, situated in a new "mixed development" mall in suburban Wisconsin. But this is exactly what COA in Glendale is. The decor speaks almost nothing of 
traditional Mexican, and the location screams fauxburban. Yet on the front, right above the entrance is a sign that says "The Heart ofMexican Street Food". What? I don't want to generalize too much, but this place had all the signs of the places I love to hate. In short, I was ready to walk into the place, order their crappy food and then rip them apart for being expensive, inauthentic, and generally just trying too hard.
But that all fell apart once I took a bite of my carne asada taco, which to my disappointment, was pretty solid. The meat was well cooked and flavorful, and the toppings, while a little more extravagant than you would normally find at a taqueria(the roasted jalapeno was a nice touch though), were still fairly authentic. Aside from being served with a minuscule slice of lime that no self respecting Mexican would find acceptable they actually did a pretty good job. Damn, and I was so ready to hate this place too. On the flip side, my dining companion ordered a lamb torta that did not meet the same standards. I was intrigued to see the lamb offering on the menu, as it's not something you see very often in Mexican cooking, especially in Mexican street food. Perhaps there's a reason as the overcooked lamb was rubbery and very off putting. I think we both decided to stick with the tacos next time around.
I guess this post turned into a sort of restaurant review, in that I think COA does a pretty good job for what they are. They take some inspiration from Mexican street food, glamour it up a bit, tack on a couple bucks on the price and some shiny decor and call it a restaurant. It's not a bad concept, and if it gets more people to accept eating corn tortillas and tacos with no cheddar cheese then perfect. My real point is just that I'm struggling with the lack of hispanic culture on the north side of Milwaukee. In Chicago you almost expect there to be a taqueria on every other street corner, even in the nicer parts of town. And if you live in the right neighborhoods, you can find a Mexican grocery store stuffed with fresh produce a prices a fraction of what your local conglomerate super market offers. Unfortunately I cannot say the same for Milwaukee.
It's not that there is not a sizable Hispanic population here, it's just that its more concentrated into one area of town, and that area unfortunately is neither where I live nor work. I would kill for a good neighborhood taqueria somewhere around me, and if I've picked up any Hispanic readers in Milwaukee then please make this happen. And if you live next to a taqueria in Chicago, or where ever, please savor and appreciate what you have, even if it's not the best one ever. The thing about them in the states is that while they're not always fantastic, they are rarely bad, and usually a great source for cheap, convenient meals.
Ranking food and food establishments is a popular subject these days, especially among city "readers" a la Chicago's Red Eye and Milwaukee's Shepherd Express (ed note: what kind of name is Shepherd Express for a reader?). Most of them now have an annual "best of" list that attempts to rank local establishments and declare winners in a variety of categories. Milwaukee's best fish fry, Chicago's best deep dish pizza, Brooklyn's best Vietnamese Sandwich shop and so on. While I applaud these papers for promoting the local places and giving them some much needed press, I often question whether one can truly be better than the other, oftentimes when a straight up comparison is difficult to make. It's hard to take some of the categories, such as "Best Mexican", too seriously when Mexican food in Mexico can mean a variety of regional cuisines, let alone the variations and deviations that occur here in the states.
Usually when I see these lists, I prefer instead to just make note of the finalists and attempt to get there and try their offerings for myself. Being new to Milwaukee, I've been using these lists from the Shepherd to get a lay of the food landscape here and come up with a list of places I want to frequent. I'm skeptical of whether the number one place in each list is truly better than the number two, but given the fact that they made the list, there's a good bet they both offer some good food.
So where am I going with this you might ask? Good question, let me make a stated segue across the street from my apartment to Points East Pub in Milwaukee. Points East is by definition, the closest bar to my apartment, as demonstrated by this helpful visual aid. Now, I didn't choose to live where I do because of proximity to this bar, but after moving I was happy to discover that Points is well known for serving some of the best wings around town.
Most of us are familiar with Buffalo Wings as a fried bar food, where chicken wings or drumsticks are fried, tossed in a "wing" sauce, and served to drunk, hungry patrons. Sometimes, we attempt to make them at home on the grill, where in our impatience and exuberance we spread the sugary bbq sauce over the wings almost immediately after placing them on the grill, which then forces us to take them off too soon as the skin quickly becomes burnt to a black, charred crisp (I say "we" because I've done this several times). At Points East, however, they do a little from column A and a little from column B, leading to a final product that is both delicious and unique. Their wings are prepared by first deep frying in the normal routine, but then after the initial fry the wings are coated in sauce and placed on the grill, where they are slow grilled to perfection, leaving a slightly charred skin and imparting a smokey, grilled flavor to them as well.
Now comparing these wings to your conventional wings would be tough, they tend to be a bit drier and the caramelized skin is not what one is normally used to on a wing. But they come packed with character in a sauce that's full flavored and moderately, but not overpoweringly spiced. And, if you're like me and enjoy some good blue cheese dressing with your wings (or ranch) then the drier wings make for a more balanced bite, rather than one that's just dripping down your fingers with sauce and dressing. You can actually eat these wings and maintain a sliver of self-respect rather than becoming a giant, sloppy, sticky mess. They really are some of the best wings I've ever had, and the people of Milwaukee agree, having voted Points East number one wings in years past (the category doesn't seem to exist in the Shepherd guide right now).
I would be hard pressed to say that they are truly the best wings in Milwaukee. Besides the point that I've only had wings from a few places here, it's just too hard to compare them to more conventional wings, or even the weird ass flavored wings at Buffalo Wild Wings. That's why I don't take too much stock in the final standings of those rating polls. But whether they are truly number one or not doesn't matter when you've recognized that they're some damn good and unique wings.
Fry
Sauce
Grill
Eat
Done. Come to Milwaukee and I'll show you what I mean.
One of my favorite cuisines, both to eat and to cook, is Mexican. It's a cuisine based on flavorful, inexpensive ingredients that were accessible to the masses. It's full of dishes that take lots of time, care, and expertise to make, yet are still made best by little old grandmas (abuelitas) rather than by professional chefs. In terms of bang for your buck, I don't think you can do any better than some good Mexican. I love Mexican. You love Mexican. Everyone loves Mexican.
traditional Mexican, and the location screams fauxburban. Yet on the front, right above the entrance is a sign that says "The Heart ofMexican Street Food". What? I don't want to generalize too much, but this place had all the signs of the places I love to hate. In short, I was ready to walk into the place, order their crappy food and then rip them apart for being expensive, inauthentic, and generally just trying too hard.
